Gayton McKenzie’s SHEIN Meeting Sparks Heated Debate Over South Africa’s Fashion Future

When Minister Gayton McKenzie posted that “we can’t stop SHEIN from doing business in SA” — but that “there is value in collaboration” — he probably knew he was stepping into the social media fire.

And fire it was.

Following his department’s announcement that McKenzie had met with SHEIN representatives in Singapore during South Africa Focus Week (SAFWS), critics quickly accused him of endorsing a global giant widely blamed for undercutting local fashion businesses.

The Department’s statement highlighted discussions around “inclusive sporting initiatives” and “empowering young South African designers and athletes.” But online, the response was swift and sharp.

“This is so infuriating on so many levels. If Minister @GaytonMcK and his department really cared about the local fashion industry, they’d know that any endorsement of SHEIN is no good for us,” one user fired back.

On one hand, SHEIN is a behemoth — a data-driven fast fashion empire with over $100 billion in global sales and a massive footprint among young South Africans. On the other hand, local designers and small fashion entrepreneurs are battling to stay alive amid cheap imports and shifting consumer behavior.

McKenzie’s argument? You can’t stop globalization — but you can shape it.

“We can’t stop SHEIN from doing business in SA,” he wrote. “We can agitate and negotiate for greater participation of the local fashion industry. We met them precisely for that reason. You guys think staying angry at companies is a solution? There is value in collaboration.”

It’s a statement that challenges a deep-seated belief in South Africa’s creative economy — that “foreign = threat.” McKenzie is, in essence, betting on strategic engagement over resistance.

SHEIN’s arrival in Africa’s fashion landscape mirrors a broader startup and innovation debate: Do you fight disruption or partner with it?

• Kenya partnered with Bolt to localize mobility tech.
• Nigeria negotiated with Meta and Google to boost local content creation.
• South Africa, under McKenzie’s vision, could negotiate with SHEIN for designer collaborations, manufacturing partnerships, or talent incubation programs that go beyond imports.

It’s an uncomfortable but potentially powerful approach — especially if it leads to funding, exposure, and international distribution for South African creatives.

🧠 The Entrepreneurial Takeaway

For startups, the SHEIN debate is more than a cultural clash — it’s a masterclass in market reality.

• Disruption is inevitable.
• Regulation can be slow.
• Collaboration can turn a threat into a platform.